Food & Drink
Talking about and enjoying food is pretty much a national pastime in Singapore. While there are plenty of upscale, high end restaurants in Singapore, we’ve preferred to highlight hawker stalls or casual fare to encourage you to taste everyday Singaporean cuisine.
Refer to Google Maps for the most updated information about each location in this guide as opening hours vary.
Hawker Centres & Food Courts
Hawker centres are the cornerstone of Singaporean food culture. These open-air buildings house individual hawker stalls that cater to the many cravings of local diners. Food courts are the “atas” (ɑːˈtɑs/ a., Malay/Singlish for “high class”), air-conditioned cousins of hawker centers. You’ll find at least one food court in every mall, and you’ll find at least one mall at every SMRT train station. Not all hawker centers and food courts are created equal – there are great ones, and others are more mediocre. An adventurous appetite will bring you much gastronomical joy. Here’s a list to get you started.
Maxwell Food Centre
Maxwell Food Centre is a veritable food mecca for Singaporean food. If you love food and only have time to hit up one place in Singapore, let this be it.
Maxwell is home to Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (#01-10/11) made famous by Anthony Bourdain, so unfortunately, the line is long at any hour. As an alternative to Tian Tian, we recommend Ah Tai which is a couple doors away (#01-07).
Other highlights here include Zhen Zhen Porridge (#01-54), Guan’s Mee Pok (#01-99), China Street Fritters (#01-97), and Fuzhou Oyster Cake (#01-05).
Address: 1 Kadayanallur Street, Maxwell Food Centre, Singapore 069184.
Albert Centre Market & Food Centre
Another wonderful hawker paradise, and an institution in the heart of the Bugis neighborhood.
The most famous stall here is Bai Nian Niang Dou Fu (#01-106). Niang Dou Fu (aka Yong Tau Fu) is a traditional Hakka dish that is comprised of vegetables or other stuffable items (like beancurd skins) filled with fish paste, or a mix of pork and fish paste. The style at Bai Nian is pork/fish, so this will be a no-go if you observe a halal or pescatarian diet. Bai Nian’s menu is pretty much one item – a bowl of vermicelli in soup, with various items like stuffed veggies (including bitter melon!), minced pork, shrimp balls, fish balls, and tofu.
Address: 270 Queen Street, Albert Centre Market & Food Centre, Singapore 180270.
ION Food Opera
Centrally located in the ION Mall on Orchard Road, this is a great mall food court to check out since a number of “famous” stalls from across the island have stalls here too. If you like beef, Scotts Hwa Heng Beef Noodles (a Singaporean institution) still holds up well in its fancier digs.
Address: No. 2, Orchard Turn, #B4-03/04, ION Orchard, 238801, Singapore 238801.
VivoCity Food Republic
If you’re on your way to Sentosa, VivoCity’s Food Republic is a great place to grab a bite to eat. I especially enjoy the decor here, as they’ve tried to replicate mid-century Singaporean hawker stalls.
Hawker Stalls
Hawker stalls are run by individual vendors who rent or own spaces in hawker centres, typically specializing in the mastery of one particular dish. You can think of them as the atomic units that make up hawker centres. While most hawkers remain small-scale or family-run affairs (sometimes for multiple generations) with a single location, others have grown larger empires with additional outlets across the island.
Ah Tai Chicken Rice
Chicken rice is sometimes referred to as Singapore’s national dish so, as the locals say, “you must try”!
Maxwell Food Centre is home to Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (#01-10/11) made famous by Anthony Bourdain, so unfortunately, the line is long at any hour. As an alternative to Tian Tian, we recommend Ah Tai which is a couple doors away (#01-07). Here’s a 5-minute documentary (shot on iPhone!) that covers the relationship and drama between Tian Tian and Ah Tai.
We tend to like Ah Tai a smidge better because their chili sauce is spicier and tangier and the rice has a good texture to it. Also, Ah Tai will serve you up a complimentary bowl of soup (a traditional gesture by chicken rice vendors) and Tian Tian scandalously does not.
Hua Bee Restaurant
Hua Bee Restaurant is a classic “kopitiam” (Singaporean coffee shop) which serves your standard Singaporean breakfasts – “kaya” (coconut jam) toast, soft boiled eggs, and strong coffee to put hair on your working class chest.
Hua Bee’s claim to fame is being the location for the Singaporean film “Mee Pok Man”. “Mee Pok” is a style of flat, wide egg noodle, and it’s served here “Bak Chor Mee” style with pork, mushrooms, fish balls and fish cake. You can get it with or without soup. It’s unclear to us if Hua Bee was known for its Bak Chor Mee before the film was shot, or if they serve it now because of their association with the film. Either way, their version of Bak Chor Mee is classic.
Address: 78 Moh Guan Terrace, #01-19 Singapore 162078. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Beo Crescent Hainanese Curry Rice
Most people who visit Singapore know about Hainanese Chicken Rice, but most people haven’t tried Hainanese Curry Rice, which is a uniquely Singaporean dish. Walk up to the stall and marvel at the different trays of prepared dishes waiting for you.
The fun lies in picking out what you want to have over a plate of rice. The most typical combination is a crispy fried pork chop (cooked Hainanese style, like a flatter, crispier version of Japanese pork katsu), stewed cabbage, a fried egg, and a large heaping of curry sauce on the top. Beo Crescent Hainanese Curry Rice is also sometimes called “No Name” because the stall doesn’t actually have a name.
Address: 40 Beo Crescent, #01-10, Ho Ping Hng Coffeeshop, Singapore 160040. Closed on Wednesdays.
Loo's Hainanese Curry Rice
Another longstanding Hainanese Curry Rice hawker, Loo’s serves up plates of comfort food in Tiong Bahru since 1946. Originally housed behind a bright turquoise gate in a coffeeshop, Loo’s Hainanese Curry Rice eventually moved to the second floor of Tiong Bahru Market across the street. They’re only open till 2:45pm each day (closed on Thursdays) so plan your mealtimes accordingly.
Loo’s fried pork chop is made in a traditional Hainanese style with biscuit crumbs as a coating. Don’t forget to add sambal seafood and braised cabbage to your order. An affordable and delicious meal, this will fuel you for an afternoon of wandering around Tiong Bahru.
Address: 30 Seng Poh Rd, #02-67/68, Singapore 168898. Closed on Thursdays.
Lili Kway Chap and Braised Duck
“Kway chap” (kóe-chiap, 粿汁/ n., Teochew) is a Southern Chinese Teochew noodle soup dish that is served with different types of braised side dishes. Depending on the stall, you might be able to add duck meat, pork intestines, pork belly, hard boiled eggs, and different types of tofu. The highlight of the dish is really the smooth and flat rice noodles that come in a dark, herbal-spiced broth. You could order the side braised dishes with rice, but the noodles make this dish really special.
You’ll find Lili Kway Chap in a corner on the second floor of Tiong Bahru Market, run by a stern-looking but friendly hawker uncle. The menu shows you different combinations that you can order, but if you have any questions you can ask the stall owners and they’ll help you out. Getting the “kway” (the rice noodles in soup) costs extra (SGD$0.50 at last visit) but it is very worth it. The braised duck is tender and flavorful, and they also make a special braised rice with yam and dried shrimp that is hard to pass up.
Address: 30 Seng Poh Rd, #02-28, Singapore 168898.
Sungei Road Laksa
“Laksa” (ˈlɑksɑ/ n., Malay) is a spicy curry rice noodle dish that’s very specific to Singaporean, Malaysian, and Thai cuisine. The Singaporean version of laksa is based in a thin coconut curry, served with bean sprouts, fish cake, and cockles. Sungei Road Laksa is completely old school – my foodie dad has been going here since he was a child, and it’s still his favorite laksa stall, hands down. The curry is cooked in a huge pot over a charcoal fire, and when the laksa uncle serves it up, he doesn’t give you chopsticks. That’s not a problem – just eat it all with a soup spoon. If you don’t like the cockles, which can have a strong flavor, just set them aside or ask the uncle to not add them to your order. Serving sizes are a little smaller than what you might find at other hawker stalls.
Address: 27 Jalan Berseh, #01-100, Singapore 200027. Closed on Wednesdays.
Selera Rasa Nasi Lemak
“Nasi lemak” ( ˈnɑsiː ləˈmɑk̚/ n.) is Malay for “rice” and “grease”, a very literal way of describing rice cooked with coconut milk. Start with coconut milk, and pile on a fried egg, some fried ikan bilis (ˈɪkɑn ˈbɪlɪs/ n., Malay for anchovies), sambal chili, fried chicken or fish, or even a piece of otak-otak (əʊˈtɑk əʊˈtɑk/ n., Malay for spicy fish paste flattened and roasted in banana leaf) and you have yourself a delicious platter of fragrant nasi lemak.
The consensus is that Selera Rasa Nasi Lemak (also known as Adam Road Nasi Lemak), located at Adam Road Food Centre, is hands down some of the best nasi lemak in Singapore. On most days, the line is literally out the door, so be prepared to wait.
Adam Road Food Centre is conveniently within walking distance from the Botanic Gardens.
Address: 2 Adam Rd, Stall #2 Singapore 289876.
New Rong Liang Ge Roasted Delight
Roasted meats are a Cantonese specialty, and New Rong Liang Ge does an exceptional job at churning out roast duck, roast pork char siu (ˌtʃɑr ˈʃu/, 叉烧), crispy pork belly siu yok (ʃuˈjoʊk/, 烧肉), and more. We’d recommend the crispy pork belly siu yok over noodles, with their special braised soy sauce.
While the line can get long, it moves pretty quickly, but expect to compete for a place to sit at peak mealtimes. And if you lose heart while standing in line, Albert Centre Market & Food Centre is close by so you won’t be far from more options for lunch.
Address: 3838 Eating Place, 269B Queen Street, #01-235, Singapore 182269
Ah Heng Curry Chicken Bee Hoon
Content coming soon!
Restaurants & Tze Char
“Tze Char” (tz tʃɑ/, 煮炒) is Hokkien/Singlish for homestyle cooking in a restaurant or hawker center setting. Tze char is an efficient way to try lots of different dishes with a large group, and if you’re willing to trek out to the more residential areas of Singapore, it can be a fairly affordable meal. Popular tze char dishes include coffee pork ribs, crab (cooked different ways – my family is devoted to black pepper crab over the classic chili crab, and we’ll never turn down crab bee hoon), hotplate tofu, stir fried kangkong, and buttery prawns with curry leaves.
Song Fa Bak Kut Teh
“Bak Kut Teh” (bɑːk kʊt teɪ/, 肉骨茶) translates roughly into “meat bone tea”. Pork ribs are cooked in a broth with various herbs and spices. We recommend ordering a bowl of broth (and pick your protein – from pork ribs to pork tenderloin to offal), a bowl of rice, and picking out a couple of sides. The most commonly paired side dishes are “ham choy” (preserved mustard greens), “tau kee” (yuba), and “you tiao” (fried dough fritters). As you consume more and more of the broth, servers will come around and add more broth to your bowl if you’d like more.
Song Fa is a local chain that serves some of the best Singaporean-style bak kut teh we’ve had. A list of locations is available on their website.
Singapore Zam Zam
If you’re looking for Indian Muslim food, this is the place to go in Singapore. Zam Zam has been open since 1908, in the same spot kitty corner from the historic Sultan Mosque. They’re most famous for their murtabak, which is a savory, egg-y pancake filled with a protein. You can choose from mutton (highly recommended), beef, chicken, and tinned sardines. If that’s not your thing, order the roti prata (plain savory pancake, also available with egg mixed in) with curry dipping sauce on the side. Service can be a little slow but the food is worth it in my opinion. We’ve also enjoyed the chicken biryani when we visited, and my dad is partial to the fried noodles.
While you’re in the neighborhood (this is where the first Middle Eastern immigrants settled back in the 1800s), we recommend visiting Sultan Mosque and the side streets around Arab Street.
Ka Soh (Swee Kee Fish Head Noodle House)
This restaurant specializes in sliced fish noodle soup, and other Cantonese dishes. Great for groups, reservations recommended. My family is a huge fan of Ka Soh and we usually order the sliced fish noodle soup, “ha cheong” fried chicken (fried shrimp paste chicken), housemade tofu, and the stir fried kangkong. Feeling adventurous? Try the “eggs three ways” which is salted eggs, regular eggs, and century eggs cooked together with spinach in broth.
Sadly, their Amoy Street location shuttered a couple years ago, and the closure of their Outram location followed soon after. This leaves only one remaining outlet in Bukit Timah which, while convenient, will never be quite as charming as Amoy Street.
Address: 22 Greenwood Ave, Singapore 289218.
De Golden Spoon
Located in Tiong Bahru, an older housing estate which in recent years has become a hip, trendy neighborhood, De Golden Spoon is a pricier tze char restaurant but the dishes are well executed, and they have plenty of tables in their indoor, air conditioned space. Reservations are still highly recommended, they do get quite busy. We really enjoyed the coffee pork ribs, crab (as well as the crab bee hoon), and the spinach in broth with eggs. Come to think of it, there wasn’t a single dish we thought was mediocre, so try anything on the menu, you can’t go wrong.
Worth noting that the owner of De Golden Spoon is a Buddhist who follows the Goddess of Mercy and for that reason, he does not have any beef on the menu. If you must have beef hor fun because it’s a tze char classic, turn your attention instead to Por Kee Eating House just down the block.
Address: 62 Seng Poh Ln #01-11, Singapore 160062.
Por Kee Eating House 1996
Just down the block, sharing the same open air parking lot as De Golden Spoon, is Por Kee Eating House, and a family favorite. They have both indoor (air-conditioned) and outdoor seating, and we definitely recommend calling ahead for reservations because this place gets busy. And for good reason! We’ve never had a bad meal there and the “wok hei” here is off the charts. The rumor is that the chefs are from Malaysia and they cook with intense flames in the kitchen.
Dishes we always order and highly recommend: Champagne pork ribs, sambal kangkong or sweet potato leaves, Thai style fish in broth, homemade tofu or the tofu hotplate, seafood/fish hor fun with gravy, dry style beef hor fun.
Save some room in your belly for dessert at Creamier, which is a short walk away on quaint Yong Siak Street.
Address: 69 Seng Poh Ln, #01-02, Singapore 160069.
White Restaurant
Famous for their seafood white bee hoon, White Restaurant started as a small operation in Sembawang. They now have multiple locations. We’ve only been to the one at a mall called IMM, and that one’s indoors, air-conditioned, and extremely clean. We ordered off a tablet, which was convenient for a table of introverts. Despite the more sanitized setting, the food here has solid “wok hei”. One quirky thing to be mindful of here – if you don’t use the wet wipes provided at your table, you can turn them in and they won’t charge you for them.
New Ubin Seafood
Delicious wide range of fresh seafood, great for groups. Reservations for tables, and reserving crabs if you’re planning on order them, are highly recommended. We used to go to the old New Ubin at Hillview, which was non-airconditioned and chaotic. It seems these days we’ve got a new New Ubin at two different locations, but we haven’t tried either of these new spots.
We recommend the crab bee hoon, as well as the black pepper crab. They’re also famous for their ribeye steak (proudly labeled as US beef!) and beef fat fried rice.
Address 1: CHIJMES, 30 Victoria Street, #02-01B/C, Singapore 187996. (Closed for lunch on Mondays)
Address 2: Metropolitan YMCA Singapore, 60 Stevens Road Singapore 257854.
Snacks, Sweets, & Kueh
“Kueh” (ɡʊeɪ/ n.), or “kue”, or “kuih” or however you choose to spell it, is the Malay/Hokkien/Singlish word for a broad range of Malay/Peranakan (Straits Chinese) desserts or snacks. Kueh can be cookies or cakes, steamed or baked, sweet or even savory. In recent years, there’s been a kueh revival, with many younger chefs and bakers re-creating this heritage food to preserve tradition.
Kopi & Teh
Singaporean coffee is called “kopi”(ˈkopiː/ n.), and tea is called “teh” (teɪ/ n.). You’ll find Singaporean coffee and tea shops, known as “kopitiam” (ˈkopiːtɪʌm/, 咖啡店) in Malay/Hokkien/Singlish, at every hawker center and food court here, brewed strong and thick in small cups.
For an expat’s explanation of “kopi”, read this. Ordering kopi and teh to your liking can be a little confusing for a non-local, so take a look at this guide if you need to have your beverage just-so. Otherwise, keep it simple with a “kopi”!
Two chains to try: Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Killiney Kopitiam.
Boba Tea
Boba tea, also known as bubble tea, or pearl milk tea, is originally from Taiwan. Cold cups of tea (with or without milk) are served with various toppings like chewy tapioca balls, fresh fruit, coconut jelly, or pudding. Any boba tea place worth its syrup will let you customize the sweetness level and the ice level of your beverage, by percentages – don’t be shy about asking for less ice or sugar. Very refreshing on a hot day, we highly recommend hitting up a boba tea kiosk or two while you’re in Singapore.
Our favorite chains in Singapore are Gong Cha and KOI Thé. We’re not fond of LiHo, but they do a cheesy tea that might be worth trying for the novelty of it.
Singaporean Breakfast
You could start your day with a boring ol’ bowl of cereal, or you could kick it up a notch with a hearty, traditional, and very working class Singaporean breakfast which you can procure at any hawker center or food court coffee stall.
What is a traditional Singaporean breakfast, you ask? It’s usually two soft boiled eggs cracked into a shallow saucer, two slices of toast optionally with butter and kaya, and a very very strong cup of kopi. Kaya (ˈkʌɪjɑ/ n., Malay), sometimes translated as coconut jam, is made out of coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and pandan (also known as screwpine leaf). It’s sweet and fragrant, and when spread on toast with butter makes a mouthwatering treat.
Back in the day, you’d season the eggs with white pepper and a drizzle of soy sauce, then hold up the saucer to your mouth to slurp down the eggs but today, if you’re a little shy about doing that, just use a spoon.
Both Ya Kun Kaya Toast and Killiney Kopitiam, which are local chain coffee shops, have all day breakfast sets.
Ice Cream
Sometimes if you’re really lucky you’ll come across an ice cream sandwich cart manned by a wizened Singaporean “uncle”. In Singapore, we do ice cream sandwiches a little differently. For one, they’re made to order so check out the menu on the side and pick out a flavor. You’ll find your usual chocolate and vanilla, but the real treasures are the tropical flavors like durian, sweet corn, yam/ube, or mango. After picking out a flavor, let the uncle know if you want your ice cream wrapped in regular thin wafers or rainbow bread. Watch him slice out a thick slab of ice cream and put your sandwich together on the spot!
There’s usually an ice cream uncle along Orchard Road – best way to spot these vendors is to look out for a bright red or yellow sun umbrella.
If ice cream sandwiches aren’t your thing, but you still want to try some local flavors, check out Creamier (three locations). Pulut hitam is a local dessert made out of black glutinous rice and Creamier has distilled all the goodness of pulut hitam into a seasonal ice cream flavor that is divine. If you’re avoiding dairy, Creamier also offers fruity sorbets.
Bengawan Solo
Bengawan Solo was established in 1979 and is my family’s go-to for kueh. With many locations islandwide, chances are you’ll stumble across a Bengawan Solo during your time in Singapore. As for what to get, I say this without exaggeration: Everything. But if you had to narrow it down, try the Pandan Chiffon Cake, Pandan Kaya Cake, Kueh Lapis, Kueh Dardar, Kueh Talam, Rainbow Kueh, and Lemper Udang.
They also sell cookies and tarts in tins with traditional Peranakan designs on them. These make great souvenirs (you can get them at the airport). Bonus: Make like an Asian grandmother and store your sewing supplies in the tins when you’re done with the treats!